Showing posts with label Hiking Ireland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hiking Ireland. Show all posts

Wednesday 17 January 2024

The Knockmealdowns and Three Mountain Days on the DIngle Peninsula


Saturday January 6th;

After working from Christmas through the new year I was determined to try and make the most of my long weekend off. So with that in mind I headed to the Knockmealdowns on Saturday morning for a hike before continuing to Youghal where I fished till past midnight in the search for the illusive cod. The fishing was less than wonderful but my hike on the mountains was great and I enjoyed a nice circuit from The Vee to Knockshane. Then up along the broad ridge to reach Knockmoylan before a final push to reach the highest point in the range, Knockmealdown itself at 794 metres. The views were extensive and great. To the east lay the Comeraghs and beyond them Slievenamon and the Blackstairs could be seen. To the northwest, the Galtees stretched out and to the south the coastline of east Cork and Waterford gleamed like silver. It was a beautiful day but it was cold, and the strong biting wind on top made it no place to linger, so I wasted no time in turning for the final top of the day Sugarloaf 662 metres over three kilometres away. The climb to the top warmed me up again and it was a straightforward descent from the top directly to the car. It had been a short outing of just eleven kilometres and almost 900 metres of ascent in just less than three hours.

From Sugarloaf towards The Galtees

Looking east from Knockmoylan

Monday January 8th;

After my climb on the Knockmealdowns on Saturday I went to Youghal for a spot of fishing. I had limited success but stuck at it till half past midnight. I then camped by the beach at Caliso bay and while it was quite cold, it was worth it to rise at dawn on Sunday and enjoy the sunrise while I shook the ice from my tent.

On Monday morning I decided to head west and enjoy the delights of the Dingle Peninsula. I checked myself in to the excellent Mount Brandon Hostel in Cloghane and decided that a hike up Bartregaum and Caherconree would be ideal as they were the nearest hills to me and I could then settle into the hostel before another fishing session at Fermoyle beach. 

Looking towards Beenoskee and Brandon


As the hike wouldn't be too big I didn't have too early a start and it was a leisurely 11.40 when I started off from the car. There was a little cloud clinging to the top but I was confident of enjoying great views on the way round. The route climbs the  the broad spur that descends from Baurtregaum North East Top. The hardest part of this is the initial steep climb up through long heather until you finally reach the crest after a punishing couple of hundred hard won metres. Now the going is a bit easier, as the ground is less steep, until an easement is reached at Scregg up over the 600 metre mark. I should say at this point that it was quite cold. The ground was frozen solid and out of the wind the temps were probably hovering at freezing. Throw in the stiff wind and things felt quite wintry indeed. Unfortunately the cloud had actually increased by now, and by the 700 metre contour I was enveloped in the mist and all views were gone.


Add in the wind and it felt very wintry indeed.

Glad to be lower...looking towards Fenit.

I was still enjoying myself. By the time I reached the broad stony summit 850mtrs), things had taken on frozen look, as all the rocky were coated in hoare frost. The wind was quite strong by now so I didn't delay before setting off towards the next top of the round Caherconree at 837 metres. There is a drop of 150 metres to reach the wide col and down here I was briefly under the cloud. Dingle Bay could be seen below me, and it gleamed silver in the low sun. I was soon on the very nice ridge that rises towards Caherconree and before long I could see the cairn loom out of the mist. The wind was now very strong indeed and I was at times being blown sideways as I curved around the rim of the corrie. I suspect it was a combination of lack of concentration, the mist, and the very strong wind, but I somehow contrived to do a complete 180 turn, and walk in entirely the wrong direction back past the cairn, and down the wrong side of the mountain. I descended to about the 700 metre contour and once again emerged under the cloud and I knew that I had gone very wrong. I had of course neglected to bring a map and compass, but I knew the lay of the land, and I climbed to once again reach the summit of Caherconree, and this time I paid more attention to my route and descended correctly. The strong wind continued all the way down until I was back below the 300 metre contour. It was a super relief when it eased as I was getting quite cold, especially my hands as I only had light gloves on. All and all not my finest hour. 

12 kilometres; 1000 metres ascent in 4 hours. 

I returned to the car and continued west and a long warm shower and a change of clothes restored me. After having a bite to eat, I went and fished Fermoyle beach from 18.00 until 22.30. All I got was lumps of weed, one of which snapped my new rods tip section. Oh Dear.

Tuesday January 9th;

After a good nights sleep I emerged from the hostel to a beautiful crisp morning. Being ever the optimist, I went and spent an hour digging enough lugworm for another couple of fishing sessions, before returning to the hostel, and after another bite to eat I set off on my hike. I love being able to walk to the mountains from my accommodation, and when the views are as good as they are in Cloghane, even a few kilometres on the road is a pleasure.

Looking across to Beenoskee

If views like these don't entice then what will.

I decided that a climb up the steep spur that rises above Lough Avoonane and climbs to Gearhane, was the perfect way to reach the main ridge. This involves a four kilometre walk in along a quiet little lane, that extends to the end of the valley beneath Ballysitteragh. The views were just sublime as some wispy cloud played along the ridges and tops of the main ridge. Across the wide expanse of bog, the glories of the mountains from Slieveanea to Beenoskee we a delight. I was like a kid in a sweetshop.


Up the spur left of centre...Brandon Peak the highest point.

After leaving the road, a farm track rises to the lakeside, and once you cross the outflow, then the climbing begins. The next two kilometres are pretty unrelenting, and six hundred meters are gained. I was feeling strong and I kept up a nice steady pace. Once near the summit I was treated to the stunning scenery of the western side of the massif. There, Slea Head, the Blasket Islands, the Three Sisters and more, are laid out in a wonderful display that is rightly famous all over the world. There was also less wind today, and while it was still cold and breezy, it was easy to pause and take it all in. 

Towards Slea Head, The Blaskets and so much more.

Spectacular ridge to Brandon Peak

The ridge to Brandon..wearing its cap.

A nice airy walk from Gearhane and soon I reached Brandon Peak. This is a spectacular place and I enjoyed a couple of minutes here before setting off towards Mount Brandon itself. The next three kilometres were a delight and I kept to the rim of the ridge the whole way. This added a bit of climbing to the route but it was worth it. I was able to enjoy the views of the spectacular northeast face of the mountain the whole way. As is so often the case, a cap of cloud covered the summit, but this didn't take from the experience, and I was soon back under it as I continued past the top. The drop into the spectacular coum below the Faha Ridge was straightforward and soon I was walking along the track that shirts around the shoulder of Binn Faiche and descends easily back to the village. It was a simple joy for every step. Frozen frosted cliffs descended to icy little lakes and below and across the valley lay Cloghane bay and Beenoskee. The route ends literally across the road from the hostel and it was lovely to walk in and shower and change the clothes in the warmth. 

Down below the summit into the coum. Faha ridge on the left.

I went fishing once again later on to the beach near Brandon Pier. While there was no disaster like a broken rod, all that was on offer from the fishing was lots of tiny whiting. Still it kept me entertained for a few frigid hours.

The hike had been wonderful. I had covered about 18 kilometres, climbed 1400 metres in 5 hours 15 minutes.

Tuesday January 10th;

Beenoskee beckons

Well if I thought the previous morning was good then this morning was just about perfect. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and not a puff of breeze to disturb the perfection. The tide was out and even the shoreline seaweed was frosted. I decided to head to Beenoskee this morning. After checking out of the hostel I drove the few kilometres to the start of my chosen route, which started at the junction of the Cloghane-Connor Pass road. There is parking here for several cars and the route ends right there.

Glorious. In Glenahoo valley at the start of the climb. Beenbo beyond.

Leaving the car...The Brandon Massif.

It was 09.30 when I left the car and set off along the road for the almost three kilometre walk before I could exit and begin to climb towards the beautiful Glenahoo valley under the western slopes of the mountain. This road can be quite busy in the tourist season but on this frosty January Tuesday I only had a couple of cars to spoil the silence. After turning off the road you follow a farm track into the valley until just after a plantation of forestry you begin the climb to Binn an Tuair 592mtrs. This 500 metre climb is unremitting and only gets steeper until finally the broad summit slopes arrive. Despite it being minus 2 starting off I was sweating heavily before too long. My legs were feeling the effects of yesterdays outing, but I managed to keep up a decent pace but it was a big relief to the top. Now the going was easy across the frozen bog and before long I was on top of An Com Bán 610 metres. The view from here to the Maherees is great. After a short descent the remaining 250 metre climb to Beenoskee passes quite well. It was a delight to rest a little while on this excellent airy summit. Situated as it is in the heart of the peninsula, the views to both Caherconree and of course Brandon are superb. To the north the Maherees jut out into Tralee bay and to the south Dingle bay cuts inland and the mountains of the Iveragh peninsula stretch away.

Summit views....towards The Reeks

Towards Brandon

The Maherees

Towards Caherconree and the Slieve Mish

I didn't delay for long though, as up here the calm air of the valley was replaced by a frigid breeze, so I turned and headed down to the wide basin of bog that stretches for six kilometres towards Slievanea. After losing over 300 metres I reached somewhat flatter ground. Normally the pitted and rutted bog is very wet but today it was merely pitted and rutted so traversing the frozen ground was a little easier. Once I crossed the fledgling river called Abha Mhacha na Bó at the 300 metre contour somewhat easier ground is reached for the climb to reach Beenbo at 477 metres. This is an excellent spot to survey what you have done so far but I turned without delay and headed towards the nearby Slievenagower at 486 metres. Once down, a track that skirted the flanks of the mountain proved too tempting, so I forwent the summit and instead headed for my final top of the day, Slievenalecka at 458 metres. I crossed the river that flows from the triumvirate of lakes that nestle at the end of the valley and climbed the final 130 metres to the top. What a gorgeous eerie this place is. To the left the cliffs of Slievanea drop to the beautiful Loch Chom Callain, and nestled below and to the right Lough Adoon looked equally good. I sat here and ate a late-ish lunch before beginning my descent. One word of caution here. The initial forty or so metres are very steep and do require some caution. The ground is good but a slip would be very painful at best. The difficulties are soon over and thereafter easy ground stretches to beyond Lough Adoon and the going is easy. I dropped down to the outlet of the lake and there is a track that runs from there all the way to the road. When I reached the lake side I was surprised and delighted to see an eagle fly past me coming from the end of the lake. I watched its serene passage as it headed out the valley and it just put a wonderful seal on the day. The last kilometre and a half passed easily and I arrived back at the car before 3pm. 

Lunchtime view...towards Slievanea

Looking back over Lough Adoon

Balmy back near the car.

It had been another wonderful day out. I covered 19 kilometres, climbed 1350 metres in 5 hours 20 minutes.

So, over the three days I had covered much of the main mountain areas of the peninsula. Each had been different and challenging for different reasons but the one thing they had in common was the majesty and beauty of the scenery. The Dingle Peninsula is special.



Monday 11 December 2023

A FEW DAYS IN WEST KERRY


 Sunday December 3rd;

I had a few days holidays left for the year so I decided that I would head to Port Magee between Cahersiveen and Valentia for a few days. It is a fairly long drive to reach there so I decided to do a hike near Killarney and drive back afterwards. I opted to do a quick up and down of Mangerton which would give me a taste of the wilds and wouldn't take up the whole day. It was quite foggy while I was driving back and the temperature was down to just one degree. I was hopeful that I would be able to enjoy some views above the fog and that is what transpired.

Stoompa, Crohane and The Paps stretch to the east

Torc, Purple Mt and The Reeks and more

I left the busy trailhead at Tooreencormick at 10.15 and set off up the track. The hard frosts of the previous few nights had done their work and the boggy and mucky sections were pretty frozen. It made for easy going. I was delighted to find that before long I was starting to see blue sky through the blanket of fog and soon I was adrift above the sea of mist and the glory of the mountains stood proud all about me. It was a simple joy to be out. I continued to the top, all the while enraptured by the scene. Once up on the summit rim I decided that the day was too nice to be cut short so I decided to stay high and complete the circuit of the Horses Glen, so I headed for Stoompa. It was wonderful easy going on the frozen ground and after just a few kilometres the gradual pull to the summit began. As I was nearing the top I spotted another climber enjoying a bite to eat and when I reached him I was delighted to discover it was my friend Connie Looney. We enjoyed a fine old time as we completed the round together and all too soon we reached our cars. 




After the hike I drove the remaining 80 kilometres to my accommodation near Portmagee. I checked into my B&B and relaxed for a bit, before setting off to Knightstown, where I hoped to do some fishing. It came as a shock to discover that the wind had risen significantly, and, while I did fish for nearly two hours, it was very uncomfortable in the freezing wind and frequent splashes from the waves. I called it a night early and retreated back to my room. Not everything is perfect I guess.

Monday December 4th;

The weather was beautiful and sunny this morning but a cold wind still blew. I wanted to do some fishing tonight and I hoped that the wind would ease. Before that I wanted to get another hike in. The nearby Bray Head would be too short so I decided to leave my car where it was and explore the hills that rose behind my accommodation. There was a broad boggy ridge that reached just about 400 metres but it stretched all the way to the cliffs that looked out towards The Skelligs and I reckoned what it lacked in height it would more than make up for in views. So decision made, I put on my gear and set off.

The first thing I had to figure out was how to access the open hillside, as underneath there was a patchwork of farms. Off to the left there was some forestry planted and I reckoned that once I accessed that then I would be able to reach the hillside from there. There was a lane that stretched in towards it so I headed for there. After an initial kilometre on the main road I was soon on the lane. A waymarked trail runs along this lane so I followed it until I reached the woods. Unfortunately the way into the forestry was completely overgrown with gorse and brambles, so I returned to a patch of scrubby pasture where some cattle grazed, and tried to reach the mountain from there. I succeeded after some prickly encounters with gorse and before long I was slogging up through the wet ground. It was just a 250mtr pull to reach the crest of the ridge but it was energy sapping stuff, as, in the long grass and sticky bog, each step was hard won. On the plus side, the views were as wonderful as I had hoped. Across to Valentia was lovely but it was the view to the west where the mountains rose up from the bay, that was a true delight. The odd squall of rain came and went and these only added to the beauty and drama of the landscape. Once on the broad crest I could see down to Ballinskelligs Bay, and I could follow the line of mountains from where they rose from the sea all the way to the Reeks. It was heady stuff but the cold wind didn't allow for too much time to linger and I set off towards the highest point of the day Knocknaskereighta at 395mtrs.


Looking towards Bray Head

What a view...Looking back 

Always a delight to see The Skelligs

Thankfully the going was now easier as there was a faint track near an old fence line. I soon reached the featureless top and stopped to admire the view. And what a view it was. It always is a delight to see The Skelligs and this was a new angle for me to view them. I was once again under their spell and in great spirits as I headed to the next top where a collection of communication masts lay. Now these are not the prettiest things in the world, but there was so much else to please the eye that I didn't mind them at all. After the masts a road stretches all to way to the top of Coumanaspic. Here I paused to look at a poster that gives dubious information about the cycle that crosses over the pass. I felt that they had no need to exaggerate the route, as I know all too well just how steep and tough a cycle it is. Short it may be but when you get gradients reaching over 15% then I struggle big time. After the pass a short pull reaches the final top of the day. A broad dome that offers stunning views in all directions, but most especially out to the Skelligs. Now I turned right and soon reached the spectacular cliffs that drop over 200 metres to the sea. More wonderful views follow, and after climbing to the top of an outcrop, I turned and descended the steep bog to reach the road that stretches down to Portmagee. After a few kilometres I was I the village and I once again joined the main road and walked the final couple of kilometres back to my room.



It had been a delightful walk. Some of the ground I would guess doesn't see too many visitors and it was mostly all new to me. A total of 17 kilometres, just 650 metres ascent in 4 hours.

Tuesday December 5th;

The fishing had been very good the previous evening and thankfully the wind had eased a bit so it hadn't felt so cold. It had still been quite windy though, so it came as a surprise to emerge from my room to a still and frosty morning. I still hadn't made up my mind what to do today. All I knew was I was heading home. I had considered going to The Reeks and climbing Carrauntoohil but with the top few hundred metres iced up I reckoned that I might need crampons so I discounted that. As I drove towards Cahersiveene, Knocknadobar looked lovely, so once again I chose there.

Frosty fields by the shores...yesterdays walk on the hills just right of centre.

It was a gorgeous morning. No wind and frozen turf made it a delight to be on the hillside. I followed the trail until it crossed the fence and then I turned and headed directly towards the crest of the ridge that descends south-westerly from the summit. This gave a stiff near 300 metre pull that cleared any lingering cobwebs and the reward of the stunning views to be enjoyed made the extra effort well worth it. This ridge offers one of my favourite viewpoints in Kerry and I relaxed for a minute or two and took it in. 

Looking east



Now the going is easier as height is gradually gained and before too long I was on the broad summit. The view to the distant Reeks was lovely and they looked nice and wintery. It looked like I made the right decision to avoid them today. I decided to include the nearby east top in the hike and from there I contoured across to the north top. Now I turned and began the easy descent towards Coonanna Harbour. The view as you descend is delightful and it is a pleasure to pause often and look around. Soon I was down on the shoreline and a short walk on the quiet little road saw me reach the car. It had been a short but very satisfying outing and I had a smile on my face as I set off on the drive home. Kerry delivered yet again.

Sunday 12 November 2023

A Visit To Leenane...A Jewel In Connemara

 


Tuesday November 7th;

Connemara is always a joy to visit. The stunning mix of sea, bog, lake and mountain is ever changing and interesting and everywhere you look is a wonder to behold. It is fair to say that I was looking forward to returning. I had booked myself into the Leenane hotel for a few nights and so all I needed way some decent weather. The west of Ireland weather can be poor at any time of year but in winter it is certainly a lottery whether the outdoors can be fully enjoyed. I was therefore reasonably pleased that the forecast was for a good start to the trip and Friday was to be good as well. Two out of four is a pretty good result. I was pleased to see that things were indeed pretty good as I drove the long journey northwest. I started out quite early 06.50 and despite heavy traffic getting through Galway I found myself entering the wonderful wilds  not long after 10 am. I wasn't sure what exactly I would do today (what else is new) but when I reached Maam Cross I turned right and decided that I would repeat a walk I had done once before on the westernmost section of The Maumturks. That time I walked from the high point on the road between Maum Cross and Maum and went out and back to Binn Mhór in the cloud. Today with clear tops and mostly blue skies I reckoned it would be a whole new experience.




While it was sunny, I wasn't in any doubt what time of year it was as a chilly brisk breeze had me don my jacket right at the start. I left the car at 10.40 and started off across the bog towards Corcogemore, which at 610 metres meant that a 530 metre climb loomed. And loom it certainly did as before long the ground rises steeply. I wasn't too subtle in trying to find a way up. I simply avoided the rock ramparts and took as direct a line as possible. It was at times quite steep and had some wet bog scrambling but height was gained quickly. It remains steep up until the 550 metre contour and then it eases back and a series of humps are cleared before finally the summit cairn appears. Wow, the views were stupendous. Everywhere, in every direction was a joy. Back to the east the bog stretched to Lough Corrib which faded into the distance. To the north, Joyce Country with its gentle rolling tops was a delightful mix of rusty reds and green. Ahead the rock strewn rugged ground of the Maumturks curved around to the north towards Leenane and to the south and west the sun glistened on the many many lakes of Carna and Roundstone bogs. I was in heaven. 



After Corcogemore the ridge curves and descends to well below the 400 metre contour before another steep climb follows to reach Mullagh Glas at 621 metres. I have been less than diligent about my fitness recently and since the marathon in Dingle at the start of September I have been lazy and over self-indulgent. I was finding the going a bit tougher than I should. That said, I was loving my outing. After a short while the ridge drops again before another climb is needed to reach the east top of Binn Mhór at 631 metres.  Over the next kilometre and a half the broad, hillocky, rocky ridge gradually rises until I found myself atop the rocky outcrop that is the summit of Binn Mhór 661mtrs. The views just got better and better. Now I was able to look down into the glorious Inagh Valley, beyond which the wonderful Twelve Bens rose. They are always an inspiring sight and it was lovely to relax for a little while and soak it all in. I didn't stand for too long as the wind was biting so I turned and made my way back over the tops I had already climbed. The return went well and I found myself back at my car just four and a half hours after setting off.





It had been a decent outing and I had covered 13 kilometres and climbed over 1200 metres. 


Wednesday November 8th;

I had spent a couple of hours fishing from the pier near the hotel the previous evening but the crabs were cleaning the hooks after just a few minutes and only a few pin whiting were caught. The forecast for today was for a stiff breeze to bring frequent heavy showers with possible longer spells of rain. I planned to dig some bait up near Westport and climb Croagh Patrick after that. I would then do some fishing for the afternoon/evening. Heavy early morning rain had given way to mostly blue skies for the delightful drive to Westport. I drove out as far as Bertra beach where I spent over an hour and a hlaf digging for a scanty supply of lugworm. While digging I was hit by a couple of windswept heavy rain showers that looked to become more frequent in the ever darkening skies. Once finished digging I wasted no time in heading to the nearby car park at Murrisk and I set off for Croagh Patrick.

The shapely summit was visible throughout the morning but now as I started to climb the cloud rolled in and I was almost immediately assailed by heavy rain. I didn't mind though as I was well clothed against the elements. The well made track rises steadily up the flanks of Teeveenacroaghy until it reaches a saddle at around the 450 metre contour. Easy walking follows for the next 700 metres or so before the steep summit cone is reached. A long series of unrelenting steps follows so as to surmount  the 260 metre climb. As I had been in cloud since the saddle there wasn't any reason to be stopping so I made swift progress both up and down. The rain thankfully stayed away after the initial onslaught and I actually got all the way back to the car in the dry. It had been a short outing, covering just over 7 kilometres, climbing 760 metres  in two hours 20 minutes.

From the saddle looking down towards Clew Bay and the Nephin Wilderness beyond.

I ended up fishing that afternoon at the departure point for the Killary cruise boat. It was deep water but there was a lot of weed out front and this made landing fish difficult. That said I spent an enjoyable couple of hours hauling out dogfish on every cast. Getting them through the weed was tough work and I reckon that a ray or bull huss would be almost impossible to land. I might try it again though.


Thursday November 9th;

Today was to be the worst weather day with strong winds and plenty of rain. It was too windy to head up onto the mountains so I decided that I would try and fish for a bit and go for a run in the afternoon. Well, I tried to do some fishing from the rocks into Little Killary but the wind made it uncomfortable and difficult. A couple of casts into the surf at Glassilaun beach proved enough as there was lots of weed. I had to retreat back to the hotel. Once back in my warm room and after a shower I got lazy and ended up napping the afternoon away. No run for me.


Friday November 10th;

All good things end and today I was to return home. Thankfully the weather for today was promised to be good so I was going to do a hike before starting on the long drive home. It was something of a surprise to see when I went down for breakfast heavy rain sweep across the waters of Killary. Thankfully it was just a passing squall and by the time I left the hotel it was mostly clear skies and sunshine. I debated whether to climb the nearby Devilsmother but I opted instead to drive towards Kylemore and when I reached the small chapel in the middle of the bog I stopped and headed for the Benchoona mountains. Well I always called them that, I see recently they are being called the North Bens. I'm not sure I agree with this as they are separated by a road and Kylemore lake which lies down below 100 metres. Anyway, I crossed the wet boggy ground until I reached the river near some invasive rhododendron bushes. The river was a little bigger than expected but I managed to cross with dry feet and now I was on the spur that rises to the highest top in the range, Garraun at 598 metres. The ridge is long and fairly gradual but height is steadily gained and the already expansive and wonderful views only get better and better.



 Immediately below, nestled Lough Fee and beyond Killary Lough cut inland. Mweelrea soared just across the water and the rest of the mountains above Delphi looked great.  Looking back towards the car, the Maumturks and the Twelve Bens rose up either side of the stunning Inagh Valley. Wow. Once I reached the broad top I headed for the nearby Benchoona East top and continued along the rough ground to the main summit at 561 metres. I paused here to soak up the coastal views below before turning and heading across towards Altnagaigera at 549 metres. This was really just a westward spur of  Garraun South Top which I headed to next. After this, I followed the broad spur that descended easily, almost parallel to the spur I climbed up, towards the road. Gradually the ground got wetter but it wasn't too long before I reached the road. I found a spot where I could easily surmount the wire fence and ditch beyond and shortly after that I reached the car. It had taken just under 4 hours to cover the 13 kilometres and climb 750 metres. It was especially nice to get finished and changed just before a nasty rain shower arrived. Now all that was left was to drive the 270 kilometres home. 





Connemara always delivers.